Last week, I shared information on the innovative fabric manufacturers that genuinely care about “What’s in my tee?” Not all fabric is created with good intentions. This week’s topic is not fun, it’s hard to digest (literally for your pores, which ingests chemicals from your clothes), and it’s a lot to cover in one article. So, Suuchi blog readers, I’m giving you the lowdown with an exclusive sneak peek from BtL’s How to Shop for Shi(f)t.
Karen Housel, an environmental scientist and co-author of How to Shop for Shi(f)t – The Shopping Guide of Healthier Fashion for any Budget!, created a simplified list of chemicals to avoid when looking for clothes. She and I worked with members of the Greenpeace DETOX campaign to understand what chemicals fabric manufacturers should be avoiding (which I will go into more detail about in the next article). Most clothing companies that are transparent and have certifications don’t list the exact chemicals they are steering clear of on their labels or websites, so this can make it hard for consumers who are looking to avoid certain chemicals. However, when an educated consumer and an educated designer both demand better when shopping/sourcing, it puts pressure on fabric companies to shift away from harmful chemicals, especially if they begin to lose business. Gen Z is a far more educated and curious consumer. Building a brand and a brand story that speaks to the ethical concerns of Gen Z is so important to the future of fashion and design. Currently, there is a rise in the secondhand clothing market and a fall in fast fashion, which shows that brands that connect with young consumers on a personal level have an edge. They can truly shift how shoppers shop. CLICK HERE to order How to Shop for Shi(f)t on Amazon.com. Originally $19.95, it is now on sale for the launch for only $7.99 plus shipping. Enjoy! Check out the latest episode of The Suuchi Podcast where host, Emanuel, interview Taryn Hipwell, Founder of Beyond the Label & auother of How to Shop for Shi(f)t here! -Taryn Hipwell -- Originally published on Suuchi.com.
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In addition to The BtL “F”ed Up Fashion 5, the consumer-facing short list of chemicals to avoid when buying clothing, the Greenpeace DETOX campaign lists several more chemicals that designers and manufacturers should avoid when sourcing and producing fabrics.
Greenpeace’s 11 hazardous chemicals to eliminate:
Heavy metals are often used in fabric-making to help dyes adhere to fabrics. When we wear clothing, these heavy metals seep into our pores and disrupt our endocrine systems, including the proper functioning of our thyroid and adrenal glands. Heavy metals can cause cancer and, in some cases, have been linked to neurological and behavioral disorders. When you have 1 minute and 24 seconds to spare, there is a Greenpeace DETOX animated video that was released in 2012 that clearly states why it’s so important to reduce and remove harmful chemicals. “Detox is now the new industry baseline because forerunners of the textile sector went from total denial and opacity of their supply chain to transparency and the banning of all hazardous chemicals…the rest of the industry that’s using hazardous chemicals is not an option anymore.” Kirsten Brodde, Greenpeace’s Detox my Fashion Initiative If footwear giant Aldo can detoxify and reduce its use of tanning chemicals and iconic Dr. Scholl’s can release a shoe made from algae and rice husks, then there is no reason why all brands can’t make small, positive shifts that have huge impacts. They can! And for those of you starting or thinking of creating a fashion business, it’s easier to think better from the start and strive for the best as you build simply by finding creative ways to incorporate new and healthier innovations. You can learn more about being mindful of the fabrics that you are using in Beyond the Label’s new book, How to Shop for Shi(f)t — The Shopping Guide of Healthier Fashion for any Budget! here. -Taryn Hipwell -- Originally published on Suuchi.com. In the ’20s most people knew their tailor personally and oftentimes watched the in-house seamstresses sew while they waited. In the ’50s most people knew the owner of the dress boutique up the street who kept them up to date on the latest trends. Flash forward to the ‘80s where the only thing touch point the public has with a brand is the name of the designer because the brand was named after them.
Any personal connection with the designer or any part of the production team was completely removed for those of us that grew up wearing clothes from Contempo Casual or Kmart. The product development, any outside influence, production teams, and fabric details were hidden as the “special secret sauce” to producing a top-seller. A new and rising shopping culture encourages consumers to get to know the brands they choose to invest in. Yerba Mate brand Guayaki is an amazing example. We were excited to share their business model as one of our brand sponsors for the very first Beyond the Label TEDxLA “Beyond the Label” panel discussion and break sessions event. They’ve created a company culture based around the healing attributes of the ingredients in their beverages that are grown in the South American Atlantic rainforests. “Because everyone needs to take action to build a healthy climate.” “We can feed people and nourish ourselves and nourish the planet,” states Evan Marks, Executive Director of The Ecology Center. In partnership with Guayake, the Ecology Center in Orange County brings rainforest lushness to an arid environment and to educate people that visit the center about what is possible when growing crops compared to what has become acceptable. While some beverage companies may have less ingredients per product to oversee than fabric manufacturing, it is not impossible for brands to oversee all aspects of production and share the positive attributes with their customers. Industry of all Nations (IOAN) has set up their Santa Monica store to reflect a science museum for the “Chemistry of Dyes and Fibers” exhibit. IOAN gives you the option to shop by fabric so that you can own items that match your personal passions. If you’ve never seen what indigo looks like as a plant or dye block, I highly suggest taking a field trip to the store. Beyond the Label was honored that Juan Gerscovich found time in his busy schedule to be part of the Second Annual Beyond the Label Fashion Show + Tell to educate Santa Monicans about better practices in clothing production. -Taryn Hipwell -- Originally published on Suuchi.com. Intentionally and unintentionally, I’ve been taking a closer look at athleisure wear for both women and men. Unique perspectives:
Lauren Engelke, a sustainable stylist, invited me to do an IG Live chat. We spent time reviewing harmful chemicals found in virgin petroleum-based synthetics and how recycled polyester may be a better option to reduce waste, although polyester on the body can still be harmful. From flowy pants to fitted, athleisure focuses on versatility and, by default, being flattering to the body. Sustainable athleisure also focuses on affordability, ethics, and being soft to the touch. Here are three athleisure companies working hard on sustainability:
One additional tip to keep in mind: I personally love super soft Tencel® and Modal fabrics, which have been around for 20+ years. Wood-based fabrics, viscose, gets a lot of negative press, so it is important for designers to follow and transparently share a two-step sustainable sourcing guide:
Reformation does this very well with their comfy denim: “This is a super stretch denim that was sustainably made with 57% Organic Cotton, 37% TENCEL™ Modal, 4% EME and 2% EA.” Speaking of press, food-waste fabrics have been trending in 2018/2019. If you are a designer (or consumer) that is making (or seeking) athleisure, basics, undergarments, yoga gear, or quite frankly any clothing that is worn directly against the skin, you may want to check out Agraloop and also look at hemp industry waste fabric options. The technology has been evolving and will continue to evolve. Just 5-10 years ago, hemp was course, and didn’t hold elasticity similar to traditional polyester yoga fabric. And yet here we are, making use of this versatile eco fabric today. Check out REI to see lots of colorful hemp, soft hemp, blended with Tencel® hemp fabric. The win is that hemp adds nutrients to the soil as it grows and gives back as well as keeps you the shopper, sourcer, buyer safe with less to no toxins. -Taryn Hipwell -- Originally published on Suuchi.com. |
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